Three Go to Kolkata

Posted Friday 22 July 2011

In February 2011 +David, Canon Bob Harley and Mr Andrew Pont visited Kolkata for five days as guests of the Bishop of Calcutta, the Rt Revd Ashoke Biswas, to continue our exploration of the possibility of a link between the Diocese of Calcutta and the Diocese of St Andrews, Dunkeld & Dunblane. Canon Val Nellist and Canon Dom Ind paid a visit in 2010. Here are Bob’s recollections:

Kolkata welcomed us with warmth after wintry Scotland. As we waited at Immigration, two grey and white cats whizzed into the airport. +David, knowing my love of cats, advised me not to stroke them: the grey might be grubbiness rather than natural colour. Outside the sky was blue, of course, but the palm trees were dull, not glossy: it was dust. There to meet us were the Diocesan Secretary, the Revd Adhikari Hony, and the Assistant Treasurer, Mr Ritesh Sarkar, who whisked us in an air-conditioned car to a comfortable hotel.

After the briefest of pauses, we were taken to see the first of many inspiring charitable works. Rig David, of the Cathedral Relief Service, shared his vision with us and took us to Dum Dum Centre. Primary School education and ‘Empowering Women’ tuition are provided for refugees from Bangladesh. It was touching to see tiny pairs of shoes lined up outside classrooms. We met teenage girls, some of whom were learning sewing, others hand painting and others hair styling. Later in the week, we visited Mother Teresa’s Missionaries of Charity. On that day, they were caring for twenty-one babies and a similar number of toddlers.

Flowers were a feature of our visit. Huge bunches of carnations arrived in our hotel rooms almost immediately. I was able to wear a button-hole every day. At Christchurch School, pupils lined our route and showered us with rose petals. Their beautiful garden was full of spectacular roses and dahlias. Our hosts draped garlands over our shoulders at St John’s Diocesan School and at Arunima Hospice.

I was fascinated by the local wildlife: mainly black and grey crows in the air and cows at the roadside. I saw a monkey climbing up the side of a building but the highlight for me was the sight of a mongoose in the garden of Sister Florence’s Nursing College. ‘That’s why we have no snakes in our garden,’ said the Superintendent.

Educational establishments were impressive. As well as the two church schools and the Nursing College we visited Scottish Church College, Bishop’s College and William Carey’s College at Serampore. Carey had a great motto: ‘Expect great things from God. Attempt great things for God.’ We had stimulating conversations with staff and students, wherever we went..

Memories of Scotland assailed us frequently. At Christchurch School we watched a beautiful ballet set in woods with pupils dressed imaginatively as sylvan creatures. To my surprise one of the melodies was ‘Ye Banks and Braes o’ Bonnie Doon’. We heard this again at Arunima Hospice. Why? Bengal’s National Bard, Rabindranath Tagore, poet and winner of the 1913 Nobel Prize for Literature, had set a Bengali poem to this Scottish tune. On Sunday 20th February I preached in St Andrew’s Church, a Church of Scotland foundation, which retained its Presbyterian form of service and used the Church Hymnary Third Edition. Their font was dedicated to the memory of Mrs Jessie Harley, of whom I know nothing but who could possibly be a forebear of mine.

Life on the streets was vibrant and cheerful. We saw boys playing cricket on the road outside Scottish Church College. (The World Cup was immanent.) There was evidence of building work everywhere. Piles of bricks and bamboo scaffolding were apparent at regular intervals and new office blocks reached for the skies. There were also many unofficial constructions: shacks by the roadside for use as homes or small businesses. My favourite glimpse was of a barber leaning forward from his shack to cut the hair of a customer, who sat on a stool on the pavement. Driving was frantic and terrifying till I got used to it. Lane discipline was non-existent. Gaps appeared and were filled. A protocol I observed was that a double hoot on the horn signalled that overtaking with inches to spare was in progress. Our driver was very skilful. He was never fazed, not even by cars coming towards him on the wrong side of a dual carriageway.

The hospitality of our hosts was very generous. We often dined in people’s homes and experienced a genuine taste of Indian life and cuisine. It was a really wonderful experience. We hope that some of our newfound friends will visit our Diocese and have a taste of Scottish hospitality soon.